About two weeks ago I was given a curfew. I think my last ever curfew existed of not staying over at Cristy’s house past 10pm, when I was about 14. So, to be given another one, of 10pm as well seemed a bit strange. (But am I a woman or a girl after all??)

“Mum, if you see anything about Rwanda in the press in the next few days, don’t worry, I’m safe, everything’s ok, please don’t worry”

Suffice to say, mum slept well. She had no idea of anything going on at all. Whilst French and Canadian friends were having long, urgent daily phonecalls, the floorboards at Redworth remained untrodden. Little emerged in the British press. Meanwhile Rwanda was plastered all over the French front pages, and those in Canada and Belgium.


The reason I was given a curfew was not for bad behaviour. It was not because the streets were abounding with terrorists or ASBO benefactors. No. I was not to walk the streets of Kigali past 10pm in case somebody thought I was French.


The French were forcibly ejected from the country two weeks ago. The embassy has shut down, the French school has locked their doors, the NGOs have closed. Even Radio France International has been taken off air. The Rwandan embassador in Paris has returned to Rwanda. Many of the 240 French expats have left.

This is because a French judge issued a warrant for the arrest and trial of 9 of the top govt officials claiming their implication in the assassination of the president in 94 which sparked the genocide. He has also implicated our president, Kagame but because he is the leader of the country he cannot be hauled in front of the courts (French law, not Rwandan law). It is actually a delicate situation whose history is very very old. There is no evidence for the French judge’s claims. In fact, reading the report, there are some very basic errors, even with regards to the spelling of key players which – for the strength of the accusation – devalue much of it. What’s more, the French had quite a horrific impact in the genocide, funding the Hutu extremists, supplying their weapons with which up to a million people were killed with in 100 days. The school opposite my house which was in the British papers recently (see the link below) was ‘safeguarded’ by the French (between 40 and 60 000 were macheted to death there). When things calmed down a bit, the French soldiors used one mass grave as a volleyball court.


I don’t want to appear as though I have been brainwashed by the incredibly indoctrinating Rwandan media. (Letters here run something like; “I must congratulate the wonderful government for all the hard work....the great President for his.... the wonderful nature of......oh, and please would people stop spitting in the street?”). The pictures I saw in the French media of 50000 demonstrators brandishing placards were true but false at the same time. Yes, 50 000 pounded the streets all over Rwanda including in my little town. Demos were held in stadiums countrywide. Placards called for immediate French departure. The French were ‘genocidaires’ and guilty of complicity. Yet, speaking to friends, the turth is that many were forced out at 7am to demonstrate. Local Defence Forces came storming houses to pull people out to do their duty to their country and their president, a bit like for the community service days. It’s not voluntary, you do it because your country demands it. People were in tears at being forced to demonstrate.

I don’t want to comment too much on what happened or is happening. There are no truly safe places to talk of Rwandan politics. All I know is that 2 new VSO volunteers are not coming in January because they are French and their visas will probably be denied, and the girl who may be moving into my house may not be able to stay after her visa runs out which is on the 2nd Jan. Many Rwandans working for French NGOs have lost their jobs. I don't speak in French in public. I have been challenged as well, all fizzling out when I said I was British. Rwanda is losing out. But, importantly, the French have been extremely arrogant, and are perhaps treading dangerously if they don’t want to be taken to court themselves...

We’ll see all in the news. Or not, if you’re in Britain! (So watch this space instead)